Chiles Rellenos (Part 1)

After nearly two months of this blogging experiment, I find that I have no idea what to write about chiles rellenos. What can be written? That they are the best possible use for that all-purpose filling? That they are the perfect combination of spicy jalapeños, sweet veggies, flavorful meat (or creamy white cheese) and fried batter? That we make a hundred at a time, eat them all week for lunch and dinner, and still want more? That all work and no chiles rellenos makes Maggie a dull girl?

Chiles rellenos are fabulous, but like all the best things (especially in Mexican cuisine) are a bit of a hassle to make. I was trained in the art of chile relleno making by my mother-in-law, who made and sold her chiles professional as a one-woman business. Still, I am not nearly as skilled or seasoned and find the process to be a multiple-day, multiple-man job. These days, they're often served with rice, but I like them best simply wrapped in a warm corn tortilla like a taco (alla Veracruzana - great for someone who doesn't want to wash plates or utensils.)

Ingredients
25 jalapeños
3 Tbsp. plus a pinch of salt
1 qt. filling (chicken or cheese or picadillo, etc...)
1 cup flour
5 eggs, separated
oil, for frying

Directions

1 - Wearing gloves, cut the letter "I" into the jalapeños. Gently open them and scoop out all the seeds and veins with a teaspoon. Be sure not to rip the chile!

2 - In a large pot over high heat, boil the chiles with 3 tablespoons of salt until they turn a lighter green, about 25 minutes. (This step can be repeated to remove more heat from the chiles, if that's what you want for some reason, but be careful not to overcook or you will have a smushy, light green mess!)

3 - Drain chiles, allow to cool and begin cramming them with the filling of your choice. Be sure that the chile "doors" still close, while still stuffing it with as much as you can. (If the chiles are falling apart or the doors are falling off, you can mend them with a toothpick.)

4 - Roll the chiles in flour.

5 - In a large bowl, whisk the egg whites to a stiff peak. Add a pinch of salt. Whisk in the egg yolks. (Throughout the following frying process, keep the batter well whisked between batches.)

6 - In a large saute pan, heat about an inch of oil.

7 - Once the oil is hot (and be sure because you don't want soggy chiles), use a spatula to dip a floured chile into the batter and remove the battered chile to the pan of oil.

8 - Fry for 1 to 2 minutes on each side. Remove to a paper towel to drain.

9 - Remove the stem (and eat the batter off the stem, but NOT the entire stem - I learned that the embarrassing way), wrap the chile in a corn tortilla and chow down!